When it comes to planning for Ningaloo Reef you are faced with a simple matter of preference: do you want the certainty of calm water and dependable weather from March through October, or the warmer summer days, more open conditions and a smaller crowd from November to February? Either way the reef will put on a good show, but they are not for every budget or traveller.
Jemima Ashdown here. One learns on a coastal holiday that things do not always go to plan as a brochure would have you believe. The forecast can be revised, a boat tour called off, or an enterprising mozzie will zero in on the bit of ankle you left unguarded. On the Ningaloo Coast you have to time things right since the weather has a bearing on everything from how the sea is running and the wildlife to the tours on offer and your comfort levels out on the road.
A Case for Each Ningaloo Season
For a first timer the dry season is the straightforward choice if the idea is to get in some snorkelling or diving and perhaps a boat tour. Then there is the appeal of the wet and summer months for those who like their air warm and their beaches uncrowded and are happy with a less rigid itinerary.
You will not find one month that is best for all. What makes the ideal time for Ningaloo Reef is a question of what you put a premium on: whale sharks, humpbacks, turtles, a lower price on accommodation or just some elbow room at the beach. For perfect timing for WA reefs, consider which experience matters most.
Ningaloo in the Dry
The calendar may say the dry season is March to October but the transition does not have military discipline. From April to June you will typically find the daytime is comfortable, the water is clearer and the reef is in good order; July to October is fine for touring and seeing some good marine life.
It is the safest bet for planning purposes. With less rain and humidity and skies to match, a road trip to Exmouth, Cape Range National Park or Coral Bay is no trouble at all. Do not forget to check the tides and any marine warnings though; the Indian Ocean is under no obligation to give you flat water.
Wet Season And Summer
There is more heat and humidity to contend with from November to February in northern Western Australia, along with the odd tropical low or cyclone weather. You might have a day where swimming and snorkelling are no problem, another when the wind is up, visibility is down and the boat has been stood down.
But you get a more laid back atmosphere away from the peak and better value on your accommodation and tours. The flip side is that with less demand you may find shorter hours and fewer departures. It pays to see what the conditions are like before you book anything non-refundable.
Reef Time in the Dry
If you are making a long journey and would rather not have to come back because the weather has put its foot down, the dry season is the reliable option for mixing up some time on the reef with a bush walk or drive.
March to October
Temperatures are easier to take than in the height of summer, which is welcome when driving around the Cape Range. Humidity is not so much of an issue and evenings run cooler, so have a light layer to hand instead of expecting a tropical night.
As for the water, it is dependent on where and when you are. After a lengthy snorkel in the southern reaches of the dry season it can be a case of “where did I put my towel” unless you are in a wetsuit or rash vest.
Wildlife
Operators of the whale shark tours are working with nature, not a warehouse of them behind the jetty, so do not count on a sighting. Humpback whales are a seasonal drawcard and you will spot manta rays and turtles in various haunts. April to June is a good shoulder-season compromise for crowds and marine life, while October will be to some tastes with its warmer water, assuming the forecast is amenable.
Summer on the Coast
Summer on the coast has a way of being very unhurried when the conditions allow. There will be your long days of light, warm air and some quieter access points to be had, but a degree of flexibility is a must for any day on the reef.
Heat, Humidity And Rainfall
With summer comes an upturn in temperature and humidity as well as more likelihood of rain. Travel and road conditions, not to mention park access and time in the water, can be put at risk by tropical lows or cyclones. Between November and April one should be mindful of cyclone alerts in the north of Australia; official warnings are to be heeded before you put in a drive or get on a boat. For that you would do well to consult the Bureau of Meteorology’s tropical cyclone data. Do not be swayed by a weather app telling you to expect sunshine when the horizon tells a different story.
Flexible Plans, Quieter Beaches
The summer traveller is best served by an ability to alter course on short notice. A morning of snorkelling called off could mean you make for a sheltered beach or an access point you have not yet seen, or perhaps rework your route in Exmouth and Coral Bay and take a rest day.
Long drives and exposed walking are tiring in the heat. Make an early start and ensure there is ample drinking water with you. Sun protection is essential and children or pets should never be left in a parked car. Park notices should be read prior to departure as bushfire closures can impede access in the summer months.
A Matter Of Weather And Water
Whether a day on the reef is hard work in flippers or seems effortless is down to the state of the weather and water. Focusing on the air temperature overlooks what really matters: the wind, the swell, tides, clarity of the water and how long it takes to get from one place to another.
The table below is meant as a practical comparison, not a guarantee. One can see variation across the Ningaloo Coast in the course of a day.
| Factor | March To October | November To February | Planning Effect |
|---|---|---|---|
| Air temperature | For the most part milder and comfortable | Hot and humid | Get in early for your summer activities |
| Rainfall | Not absent but lower | Tropical lows and more rain | Have some leeway in your outdoor plans |
| Sea conditions | Wind notwithstanding they are predictable | Weather systems make them more so | Build in a spare day for the odd boat tour |
| Water temperature | A bit cooler as the dry season wanes | Warmer, better for a long swim | Thermal protection is wise if you run cold |
| Underwater visibility | Favourable with little wind or swell | May be excellent until rain or runoff sets in | See what the local conditions are like |
| Crowds | At their peak in the popular periods | Quieter when the holidays are over | Reserve your accommodation and tours early in the dry |
What Visitors Tend To Overlook
Some think the dry season is a sure thing for perfect water. It is not. With a clear sky overhead a boat tour can still be compromised and surface swimming made unpleasant by a bit of wind on the Ningaloo Reef. The wet season is not synonymous with non stop rain either; a few agreeable summer days can be had before a weather system intervenes. The question to ask is not whether it will rain but if your itinerary can stand up to rough seas tomorrow.
Wildlife And Timing
One cannot put in an order for marine animals. Operators of repute will abide by the rules and keep their distance, curtailing activity where it is unsafe or disruptive. To base a season on a single headline species is to invite disappointment; Ningaloo is a living reef, not a wildlife theatre where the seats are assigned.
Whale Sharks And Humpbacks
The whale sharks of the WA Coral Coast draw many to the reef. While the prime time for them is associated with the dry season, there is no certainty to sightings or timing. An operator can offer some guidance for the season but none will put their name to a wild animal encounter.
Humpbacks are to be seen in migration from the coast or a boat. The latter may afford a superior view but the sea and the animal’s own disposition will have the final say.
Turtles, Rays And The Like
Turtle season at Ningaloo can coincide with nesting and hatchlings. Should you come across one on the beach, follow the ranger or operator and stay away from it. Hatchlings are vulnerable and a crowd with good intentions is an obstacle.
You will find manta rays, coral fish and sea turtles in a number of seasons. As for coral spawning, it is a natural occurrence that is hard to pin down for a holiday schedule; consider it an added bonus to your booking rather than the reason for it.
Plan Reef Activities Wisely
Wind, swell and visibility will have a varying effect on the likes of boat tours, scuba diving and snorkelling. What is comfortable in a lagoon that is well sheltered can be out of the question at an exposed location; for that reason you are better off heeding local counsel than some generalisation about the reef as a whole.
Snorkelling Conditions
One will find the conditions at Ningaloo Reef to be at their finest with low wind and swell, clear water and a tide that is right for where one intends to put in. Make sure you know your way in and out, do not stand on the coral and under no circumstances snorkel by yourself in waters you do not know. A pair of reef shoes are of use at a rocky entry but they are no safeguard against bad conditions.
Those new to it would do well to put their swimming ability before a guide and opt for a guided session or an area that is clearly marked and sheltered. From the sand a current or a long swim on the surface may not look so arduous.
Diving And Boat Tours
At any given site on the Ningaloo Reef the diving is dictated by what the skill level calls for as much as by the current, visibility and swell. As for scuba, it is not something for the unwell or unqualified, nor for those who will not abide by a safety briefing from the guide.
Weather has a way of making itself felt on a boat tour. I have been known to put too much faith in a final-day outing only to find the ocean had its own agenda; if the trip is of short duration, do not make your last day the one for the reef. Put in a spare day when you can.
Crowds And Costs
It is during the dry season, school holidays and long weekends that one sees the crowds and prices at Ningaloo Reef mount. Coral Bay is all very convenient and compact, Exmouth has more to offer by way of accommodation, supplies and getting to places of interest; either way they are quick to fill up.
You might find less pressure on accommodation in the wet season away from the holidays but then there is less call for tours. There is little point in a bargain room if the weather keeps you from departing or the activity you came for is not on.
Making a Budget
Transport, fuel, food, park access, equipment and the odd guided excursion should be factored into the budget. Distances on the road are long and services few, and you will pay more for fuel than in the big cities. With a campervan or hire car it is prudent to give the insurance, tyres, water and the state of the roads a good once over.
Do not take “from” pricing at face value, the figure you end up paying is another matter as demand dictates the price. Before you book, have a look at what the local operators and accommodation have to offer and enquire as to whether meals, transfers, park entry or photography fees are part of the deal.
Access And Logistics
The majority get to the Ningaloo Coast via a longer road trip in Western Australia, a drive from Perth or a flight to Learmonth Airport in the vicinity of Exmouth. Once in Exmouth put in an order for supplies before venturing into the remoter parts. In peak season the convenience of reef activities close to town in Coral Bay means early booking is de rigueur.
Have a charged phone and offline maps to hand along with enough fuel, water and sun protection since mobile reception is not to be relied upon. An official like Explore Parks WA will have the latest on road and park conditions.
Seasons
What makes for the ideal holiday will determine the season. The dry season’s predictability is to the advantage of families and first timers. Then again, an experienced traveller with a flexible itinerary can relish the warmer water and the summer quiet.
A Day To Spare
Resist the urge to fit in a national park drive, a sunset swim and both Exmouth and Coral Bay before dinner; pick a single, well run reef activity. A beginner might want to stay in the shallows of a sheltered spot, or if it is wildlife you are after, go with a reputable operator for a boat tour.
- Before breakfast have a word with the marine forecast and see what the tide and departure time are.
- Factor in time for parking and the journey and a margin for the heat or other delays.
- Be prepared for the morning tour to put in extra time and leave the afternoon open.
When and by Whom to Visit
For those in search of dependable access to activities, less humidity and the odds of a placid sea, the months from March through October are preferable. A shoulder season from April to June will put reef opportunities and crowd levels in better balance. Then there is November to February for the warmer water, more leeway in your travel and a quietness on land one might prefer. But do not make a boat tour the axis of your whole trip when tropical weather is in the offing.
In the end, the way to time a WA reef excursion is to align with the conditions, not some arbitrary date.
A Monthly Guide
One can plan for flexibility and comfort with a month-by-month view of things. Take what follows as tendencies in planning; local weather has a mind of its own and can be as uncooperative as it is agreeable.
March/April
Some influence from the wet season’s passing may yet be felt, but things have a way of settling down. The water is warm and the reef more open, which is to the advantage of any traveller with an appetite for a degree of uncertainty.
May/June
Much like the rest of the April to June window, these are good months for a well-rounded trip. You will find touring to be comfortable and wildlife pursuits available. Make sure to put in bookings for the in-demand tours and dress for cooler water.
July–October
If you want the dry season, marine life and a wide array of things to do on the reef, this is the time. Only be aware that popular periods see higher demand, so get confirmation on your accommodation and tours early.
November–February
The summer heat and humidity come with warmer water and a likelihood of rain or cyclone activity. A flexible disposition will be rewarded, though you have to factor in the possibility of a park or tour being called off.
Reef Questions Answered
Given the size of Western Australia and how quickly the climate alters from north to south, putting together a seasonal plan for the reef can be confounding. What follows puts the broad Australian picture aside for what one encounters on the Ningaloo Coast.
Wetter or drier in Australia?
It is not a case of the country at large going one way or the other. Western Australia has its share of distinct climate zones and patterns that differ with the region and season. Put aside the national headlines and go by the regional forecast and warnings for a Ningaloo visit.
Is the Great Barrier Reef off limits at times?
Any time there is a severe weather warning, a cyclone or unsafe conditions in the water, a visit should not be on the agenda. Do not assume the advice for the Queensland-based Great Barrier Reef applies to its counterpart in Western Australia; they have different seasons.
Ningaloo or the Great Barrier Reef?
There is no clear winner. With the Great Barrier Reef you get a certain Queensland flavour, complete with its islands and operators and the like. Ningaloo is for the type of traveller who wants a more straightforward connection to the coastline and the smaller centres. It comes down to your budget, where you are going and how much time you have.
What is the wettest month in WA?
You cannot say for the state as a whole. In the north, say the Pilbara, the summer wet season does most of the raining; in the south-west of WA it is the winter. Look at the location proper.
Summer at Ningaloo?
You can. But variable weather, the heat and humidity are to be expected. Be up with your outdoor pursuits, have some spare days in the itinerary and be sure of the cancellation policy before you part with your money for a tour. Also check for any marine or cyclone alerts.
Making the Trip
To have a first visit without issues, the dry season is best, with April to June a fine compromise. Summer will do if you do not mind making last minute changes for the sake of fewer people and warmer water.
See to the tides, the forecast and whether the park and your tour are open before you set out. Have your sun protection and water and a light layer to hand, and enough patience to let the ocean decide. On Ningaloo Reef such flexibility is no bother, just the right way to go about it.
